DIFFERENT TYPES OF SLEEVES 

Tuesday, July 23, 2013 - Posted by Harley wed at 8:36 PM
1 Puff Sleeves (upper side gathering)
Firstly put same measurements as shown ort page no. 7 till 5-6-0 and below that as follows
0 to 7 : Take three inches or maximum five or six Inches upwards as per choice.
6 to 8 Same as 0 to 7. But take It upwards as shown in the figure.
8 to 9 : Take one inch crosswise
5 to 10 : Take two inches crosswise.
7-9-10-4 : As shown in the figure. mark the outer armhole for both sides. (If marked one side inner & othe outer, armhole does not matter.) These sleeve can be made half I three forth or ful sleeves by marking gathers as shown in the fig.


2 Chuddidar sleeves / Bangle Sleeves
For this type of sleeves take same measurements as we take for full sleevecs. But only take tight measure of wrist as there comes two hooks.
O to 1: Sleeve length
O to 2: Take three or three & half inch normally.
1 to 3: Half of sleeve round
2 to 4: Same armtlole depth which Is taken for kurta i.e. Oto.2
5- 6-0: Make a right angle.
5 to 6: Make three parts and give shape as we give for plain sleeves. If you want gathers on top  (upper side), then mark or give shape as we TI give shape for sleeves having gathers.
1 to A: Take five to six inches downwards
3 to B: Take ftve to six inches downwards
B to C: Keep four inches for slit open.

For making the sleeve of this kind, instead of stitching near B or C, stitching should be done on the sides. Strips from B to C should be done and kept open ·for passlng the F hand. The stitching by the downward fold should b:e done 0
thereafter.

0 comments

Labels:

METHOD TO JOIN PIPING 

Friday, July 19, 2013 - Posted by Harley wed at 1:11 AM
For piping, you have first to cut strips of one inch width. S·trips shoutd not be .small. The longer the strip, the lesser the numb~r of Joints in the neck face strips.

Do not join these strips horizontally or vertically with one another. The joining should be crosswise. Keep the strips one over the other and cut them crosswise. then pick them separate and join crosswise, then cut a silt in the joints or else the piping joint will make the place thick.

After joining in this fashion. take one qua,rter inch margin from the edge and fokllt. then carry out stitching.

Take the measure of the fu ll neck. In general f-or ten inch measure, take nine in~h. which means the piping will be stretched by one Inch. Do not stretch the portion of neck, while fixing the neck facing.

If the neck face is stretched, then the pfpingwill stand out projected. While ftxlng the round shape ofthe neck. stretch it just slightly. While joining the piping, take the margin just a line mark more than one fourth Inch. After the piping is joined, the outer edge of the piping should be pressed with nail keeping the plplngoutslde.

This plping margin should remain Inside Intact. hence It should be folded such that. on the outer side in between the slit, initial rough stitching is done and piping is done by hand stitching. Thereafter stitching is carried outfrom outsjde.

While joining the neck strip of V or pentagonal shape, the piping shoufd be done as usual at the cone shape. Do not take Ule pleat first. Take marking on the piping and prepare the same. After the piping is ready and thereafter near the comer the inner part of piping small tucks are made, the square piping will be seen on the outer part.

2 comments

Labels:

PLAIN UMBRELLA KURTA (A LINE KURTA) 

Tuesday, July 9, 2013 - Posted by Harley wed at 1:56 AM

Back
O to 1: Full length + two inches
O to 2: Armhole according to the following For children upto 28 inch chest size take one forth of chest+ one & halfinch













O to 3: Take waistlength
O to 4: Take one forth of chest round + one & half inch
O to 5: One forth of waist round + one & half inch
1 to 8: Putmeasurementasfollowing a Tlll 321nch chest. tak.e 18 inches. Above 32 size chest take .20 to .22 inches
4 to 5&
5 to 8: Join&. take one inch more for stitching margin
B: Midpoint of 1 to 8
7 to 8: Take three inches upwards & give a shape. In case ghera, (1 to 8) is more then take 7 to 8 as three & half inch above of 4 inch & then form the shape. (If the cloth used is of stretching. quaUty, 3 then take this measure three & half to four inch above)





5 comments

Labels:

How to take measure of salwar? 

Friday, June 28, 2013 - Posted by Harley wed at 11:29 PM
How to take measure of salwar?
Required measures: Full length, seat round, bottom width
Full: length From the line where salwar is tied to the ground floor length should betaken. (With the person having bigger bellies, the sal war is tied slightly  ower at the waist.)
Seat round : We have taken this measure for the top.
Bottom round :  For grown ups the bottom width should be minimum 12 inches, however, as fashion demands, the width can be up to 14, 16, 18 inches.

How to measure Chudidar?
Required measures
1. Full length
3. Seat round
5. Knee width
2. Knee length
4. Bottom width

Full length : Take measure from the line where Chudidar is tied at the waist up to the ground level
Knee length : While taking the full length put the finger on the knee and note the measure of knee length.
Bottom width : Take one or one and a half inch more than the round measure ofthe knee.

Measure on the old dress
Always take measure on the person. While taking measure on the old dress one has to take the different measures of chest, waisl, length ... etc. These measures have to be put & noted on paper & in this case the measures are not based on the books. Hence always take measures on person. The measures taken on person help maintain fitting properly.


0 comments

Labels: , ,

HOW TO TAKE MEASURE OF KURTA ON PERSON 

Sunday, June 16, 2013 - Posted by Harley wed at 11:12 PM
Required measures-
1. Waist length          6. Seat round
2. Fulllength            7. Shoulder
3. Seat length           8. Sleeve length
4. Chest round           9. Sleeve width
5. Waist round           10. Frontneckdepth
Seat length must be taken only for fitting Kurta. Even the length of tucks point be taken for fitting Kurta.

While tak.ing measure on perso-n, the measure should be noted in view of person's structure, the country the person belongs to and the age of the person.

It is better If the person has put on the dress whHegivlng;the measure. Have a lookatthe dress. ls the length of the dress proper? Has the shoulder fallen a bit? Is the length of the sleeve proper ? See whether the width of the steeve is perfect. Also note whether the chest & the waist. the seat round and the topofthedress put on each is quite loose or tight enough or just proper. This has to be checked first.

While taking each measure. ask the customer whether he wants it to be more or less.

Full length : Take 3 to 4 inch more than the length from shoulder to knee. In the diagram, it is shown as A to 6 (or as per choice ofthe.customer.)
Waist length : Take from shoulder to waist, from A to W, In the diagram. (The waist length Is generally one third ofthe normal height)
Seatlength : This should be taken only for fitting Kurta. In the diagram, it
is from A to H, where we take  lhe measure of the seat. Take the measure from shoulder to that point. (The length Of the seat is normally one half of the nnormal height.)
Shoulder : The width of the shoulder should be taken from bone on one side to the similar bone on the other side, D to D in diagram. If the sleeves have gathers then slightly less measure would do. (If the neck ~is front back, then do not, take the shoufder measure.)

Chest : Do measure over the breast tops with the tape round the chest. The measure for young girls should be taken with fitting. Measure for old or aged ladies may be a little loose say by one inch.

Waist : Hold the tape property round the waist and take measure.

Seat(hip round): Hold the tape properly round the seat & take the measure. All the above measures be in round numbers to ma.ke it easy to record.

Sleeve length : As desired, the sleeves can taken cap, half, three fourth or full as D to E in the diagram.

Sleeve round : (Width) Take the measure of sleeve round where the sleeve ends.

Neck depth : Take the front neck depth as per choice. If the neck is desired both front & back, then take half an inch less on both sides. (It adjusts itself when put on)

0 comments

Labels:

 
  • © Make Punjabi Dress
    • All rights reserved.