DIFFERENT TYPES OF SLEEVES

Tuesday, July 23, 2013 - Posted by Harley wed at 8:36 PM
1 Puff Sleeves (upper side gathering)
Firstly put same measurements as shown ort page no. 7 till 5-6-0 and below that as follows
0 to 7 : Take three inches or maximum five or six Inches upwards as per choice.
6 to 8 Same as 0 to 7. But take It upwards as shown in the figure.
8 to 9 : Take one inch crosswise
5 to 10 : Take two inches crosswise.
7-9-10-4 : As shown in the figure. mark the outer armhole for both sides. (If marked one side inner & othe outer, armhole does not matter.) These sleeve can be made half I three forth or ful sleeves by marking gathers as shown in the fig.


2 Chuddidar sleeves / Bangle Sleeves
For this type of sleeves take same measurements as we take for full sleevecs. But only take tight measure of wrist as there comes two hooks.
O to 1: Sleeve length
O to 2: Take three or three & half inch normally.
1 to 3: Half of sleeve round
2 to 4: Same armtlole depth which Is taken for kurta i.e. Oto.2
5- 6-0: Make a right angle.
5 to 6: Make three parts and give shape as we give for plain sleeves. If you want gathers on top  (upper side), then mark or give shape as we TI give shape for sleeves having gathers.
1 to A: Take five to six inches downwards
3 to B: Take ftve to six inches downwards
B to C: Keep four inches for slit open.

For making the sleeve of this kind, instead of stitching near B or C, stitching should be done on the sides. Strips from B to C should be done and kept open ·for passlng the F hand. The stitching by the downward fold should b:e done 0
thereafter.

METHOD TO JOIN PIPING

Friday, July 19, 2013 - Posted by Harley wed at 1:11 AM
For piping, you have first to cut strips of one inch width. S·trips shoutd not be .small. The longer the strip, the lesser the numb~r of Joints in the neck face strips.

Do not join these strips horizontally or vertically with one another. The joining should be crosswise. Keep the strips one over the other and cut them crosswise. then pick them separate and join crosswise, then cut a silt in the joints or else the piping joint will make the place thick.

After joining in this fashion. take one qua,rter inch margin from the edge and fokllt. then carry out stitching.

Take the measure of the fu ll neck. In general f-or ten inch measure, take nine in~h. which means the piping will be stretched by one Inch. Do not stretch the portion of neck, while fixing the neck facing.

If the neck face is stretched, then the pfpingwill stand out projected. While ftxlng the round shape ofthe neck. stretch it just slightly. While joining the piping, take the margin just a line mark more than one fourth Inch. After the piping is joined, the outer edge of the piping should be pressed with nail keeping the plplngoutslde.

This plping margin should remain Inside Intact. hence It should be folded such that. on the outer side in between the slit, initial rough stitching is done and piping is done by hand stitching. Thereafter stitching is carried outfrom outsjde.

While joining the neck strip of V or pentagonal shape, the piping shoufd be done as usual at the cone shape. Do not take Ule pleat first. Take marking on the piping and prepare the same. After the piping is ready and thereafter near the comer the inner part of piping small tucks are made, the square piping will be seen on the outer part.

PLAIN UMBRELLA KURTA (A LINE KURTA)

Tuesday, July 9, 2013 - Posted by Harley wed at 1:56 AM

Back
O to 1: Full length + two inches
O to 2: Armhole according to the following For children upto 28 inch chest size take one forth of chest+ one & halfinch













O to 3: Take waistlength
O to 4: Take one forth of chest round + one & half inch
O to 5: One forth of waist round + one & half inch
1 to 8: Putmeasurementasfollowing a Tlll 321nch chest. tak.e 18 inches. Above 32 size chest take .20 to .22 inches
4 to 5&
5 to 8: Join&. take one inch more for stitching margin
B: Midpoint of 1 to 8
7 to 8: Take three inches upwards & give a shape. In case ghera, (1 to 8) is more then take 7 to 8 as three & half inch above of 4 inch & then form the shape. (If the cloth used is of stretching. quaUty, 3 then take this measure three & half to four inch above)





 
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